The History and Appeal of Nerikiri(wagashi)
- Cultural Experience Advisor
- Apr 26, 2024
- 11 min read
Updated: Apr 22
Introduction
Nerikiri(wagashi), a traditional Japanese wagashi, is attracting attention in Japan and abroad as a sweet that is both pleasing to the eye and full of flavor.
Its history is closely tied to the Japanese tea ceremony culture, and it is characterized by its artistic expression of the seasons and delicate sweetness.
This article delves into the culture and history of nerikiri(Wagashi) from a perspective that is likely to be of interest to foreigners.
1. What is Nerikiri?
Nerikiri(Wagashi) is a type of Japanese wagashi made by kneading a dough of white bean paste (made from white azuki or white kidney beans), sugar, and gyuhi (soft rice cake made from glutinous rice).
Colored flour is mixed into the dough, which is then shaped into seasonal flowers, scenery, animals, etc. The sweets are especially served at tea ceremonies.
It is often served at tea ceremonies, where its beautiful appearance and delicate flavor are particularly appealing.
Many of the designs of nerikiri(Wagashi) reflect the seasons, such as cherry blossoms in spring and chrysanthemums in autumn, allowing people to enjoy their artistic beauty before eating them.
The small size makes them easy to eat, and the fact that they go well not only with matcha but also
with coffee and tea is also attractive to foreigners.
1-1.Main ingredients for Nerikiri(Wagashi)
The basic ingredients for making kneaded dough are as follows
White bean paste
This is the base ingredient for nerikiri(Wagashi) and is made with azuki or white kidney beans. It is characterized by its smooth texture and light sweetness.
Gyuhi
Gyuhi is made by dissolving white bean flour or rice cake flour in water, adding sugar, and kneading.
It serves to give the kneaded dough softness and stickiness.
Connecting ingredients (yam or mizuame)
In addition to gefi, yams and mizuame are sometimes used.
These are used to adjust the smoothness and flexibility of the dough.
Food dyes
Food dyes are used to color the dough according to the season or motif.
There are powdered and liquid dyes available, and a small amount is enough to produce vivid colors.
1-2.Nerikiri(Wagashi) Manufacturing Method
The process of making nerikiri(Wagashi) determines its texture and affects its workability.
The following is a general production process:
1. making Gyuhi
Gefi is made by dissolving shiratama flour or rice cake flour in water, adding sugar, and kneading.
Gyuhi is usually heated in a microwave oven in a heat-resistant container.
After heating, mix until transparent.
2. preparation of white bean paste
The white bean paste is dried out to adjust its firmness.
After heating in the microwave, mix well with a card or rubber spatula to make it smooth.
The bean paste is thoroughly cooked during this process to make it more palatable.
3. mixing the gefi and white bean paste
Mix the gefu and white bean paste together.
The ratio of gyuhi to bean paste is usually 10:1 (bean paste:gyuhi).
Both must be warm before mixing to ensure even blending.
4. kneading
The mixed dough is then brought together and cooled while covered with a wet cloth to prevent it from drying out.
This process is repeated two or three times to make the dough smooth and easy to work with.
5. coloring and molding
The finished dough is then colored with food coloring to match the motif.
Then, the dough is shaped by hand or with tools (spatulas, toothpicks, etc.).
Often detailed designs are applied, such as seasonal flowers and plants.
1-3.A special method of kneading: Tororo Nerikiri(Wagashi)
Tororojo-nerikiri(Wagashi) is a special type of kneading using yam.
The yam is steamed, strained, mixed with sugar, and kneaded until smooth.
This process produces a soft and fluffy texture8.
1-4.Storage
Kneaded dough tends to dry out easily, so the finished product should be wrapped or refrigerated.
The dough itself can also be frozen and defrosted as needed
2.History and Origin of Nerikiri(Wagashi)
The history of nerikiri(Wagashi) dates back to the early Edo period (early 17th century) in Kyoto.
During this period, the tea ceremony became popular in Japan, especially among the upper classes, and many wagashi (Japanese confections) were created as confections to be served at tea ceremonies (chagashi).
Among them, nerikiri(Wagashi) also appeared.
The white bean paste that forms the basis of nerikiri(Wagashi) already existed from the end of the Muromachi period to the Sengoku period, and was recorded as “white bean” or “white bean paste for buns” in the “Nichi-Pojisho” (Japanese-Portuguese dictionary) published in 1603.
This indicates that sweets based on white bean paste were established in the early Edo period.
This indicates that the confectionery based on white bean paste had been established by the early Edo period.
The name “nerikiri(Wagashi)” is said to have come from the process of kneading dough to form a shape.
2-1.Edo Period: Development of Nerikiri(Wagashi) Culture
In the Edo period, Japanese society stabilized and the economy developed.
During this period of stability, the amount of sugar in circulation increased, and sweetened confectionery production became widespread.
In particular, the Kyoho Reforms (the first half of the 18th century) by the 8th shogun, Tokugawa Yoshimune, led to the domestic production of sugar, and sweet confections became available to the general public.
In Kyoto, steamed Japanese confections called “konashi” were made, and this technique was improved during the process of transmission to Edo, where it developed into today's nerikiri(Wagashi).
During this period, craftsmen competed with each other to produce beautifully designed and engineered nerikiri(Wagashi) one after another.
The designs, which depicted nature and seasonal scenes, were highly valued as artistic presentations at tea ceremonies.
2-2.Modern Times: Establishment as an Artistic Wagashi
Since the early modern period, nerikiri (kneaded dough) has spread throughout Japan and established a firm position as an “artistic wagashi”.
The characteristic feature of nerikiri(Wagashi) is the use of a soft dough based on white bean paste with gyuhi and yams, and the use of delicate workmanship to express a sense of the season.
The designs reflect Japan's unique natural beauty, such as cherry blossoms and autumn leaves, making them visually pleasing.
In addition, in modern times, they are widely used not only for tea ceremonies, but also for celebratory occasions and as gifts.
Furthermore, more and more people are enjoying making simple kneaded dough at home.
In this way, it serves not only as a traditional Japanese confectionery, but also as a new form of inheriting Japanese culture!
2-3.Origins of Chanoyu Culture:
The Connection between Zen Buddhism and Tea
The origins of the tea ceremony date back to the Nara period (710-794). During this period, Buddhist monks brought tea leaves back from China and used them mainly as medicine.
Later, during the Heian period (794-1185), tea became a luxury drink among the aristocracy, and tea culture gradually spread.
Especially in the Kamakura period (1185-1333), Zen Buddhist monks brought back the process of making matcha from China and associated it with Zen Buddhist practice.
Matcha was used to maintain concentration during meditation, forming the basis for linking spiritual discipline with everyday activities.
2-4.Muromachi Period:
The Birth of the Tea Ceremony and “Wabi Sabi
The Muromachi period (1336-1573) is an important period in which the tea ceremony approached its present form.
It was during this period that the concept of “wabicha” was born, establishing a spirituality of simplicity and quiet beauty.
Figures such as Murata Shuko and Takeno Shao'o developed this concept, elevating the tea ceremony from a mere act of eating and drinking to a spiritual ritual.
From this time, the culture of “wagashi” (Japanese confectionery) also evolved as the confectionery served at tea ceremonies.
Sugar sweeteners were developed, and confections reflecting the seasons and themes were created, which became established as “chagashi. ”
2-5.Azuchi-Momoyama Period:
Perfection by Sen no Rikyu
The Azuchi-Momoyama period (1573-1603) is the most important period in the history of the tea ceremony in Japan.
It was during this period that Sen no Rikyu emerged and perfected the tea ceremony both artistically and spiritually.
Rikyu further deepened the aesthetic of “wabi-sabi” and advocated the philosophy of “ichiki ichikai,” or “once-in-a-lifetime encounter.
This philosophy epitomizes the spirituality of cherishing every moment at a tea ceremony.
Rikyu also favored simple, rustic designs for his tea rooms and utensils, through which he sought spiritual tranquility and harmony.
This influence was particularly strong in Kyoto and spilled over into other Japanese arts such as ceramics and garden design.
2-6.Edo Period:
Spread to the Common People and Nerikiri(Wagashi) Culture
During the Edo period (1603-1867), as Japanese society stabilized and the economy developed, the tea ceremony spread to the common people as well as the samurai and aristocracy.
During this period, the amount of sugar in circulation increased and a wide variety of Japanese confections were developed.
Nerikiri (fish paste) also appeared around this time, and its beautiful design and seasonal flavor were highly valued at tea ceremonies.
In Kyoto in particular, nerikiri(Wagashi) craftsmen competed in their techniques, and their artistry spread throughout Japan.
Nerikiri(Wagashi) paper cutouts expressing the natural beauty of each season, such as cherry blossoms and autumn leaves, have become a symbol of Japan's unique aesthetic sense.
2-7.The Modern Age:
Experiencing Tea Ceremony and Nerikiri(Wagashi) in Kyoto
Today, Kyoto is still known as the center of Japanese tea ceremony culture.
Kyoto is dotted with historic tea houses and pottery studios, and many tourists enjoy traditional tea ceremonies and the experience of making nerikiri(Wagashi).
Nerikiri(Wagashi) is more than just a confectionery; it is an art form that expresses Japanese culture itself.
Its delicate designs and flavors are popular among Japanese and foreign tourists alike.
The hands-on programs offered in Kyoto allow visitors to deepen their understanding of Japanese culture through Nerikiri(Wagashi) production.
3. what is the nerikiri(Wagashi) experience?
The Nerikiri(Wagashi) Experience is an activity that allows visitors to experience making nerikiri(Wagashi), a traditional Japanese confectionery.
The shapes are made by kneading fine white bean paste with sugar and pigments to express seasonal flowers and animals.
The beautiful appearance and delicate taste are the attraction of this activity.
In recent years, as the number of foreign tourists visiting Japan has increased, the nerikiri (Wagashi)experience has become increasingly popular.
The ability to experience Japanese culture and make one's own original Nerikiri(Wagashi) is appealing to foreign tourists.
3-1. Reasons for the Popularity of the Nerikiri(Wagashi) Experience for Foreigners
There are several possible reasons for the popularity of the Nerikiri(Wagashi) experience for foreigners.
You can experience traditional Japanese culture.
Nerikiri(Wagashi) is a traditional confectionery that has developed along with the Japanese tea ceremony.
Through the Nerikiri(Wagashi) experience, visitors can experience the spirit of the tea ceremony and the Japanese sense of beauty.
Sharpen your senses and exercise your creativity
Making nerikiri(Wagashi) requires a delicate touch and creativity.
Through the process of adjusting colors and shapes, you can sharpen your senses and exercise your creativity.
You can create delicious and beautiful kneaded dough.
The finished kneaded dough looks beautiful and tastes elegant.
It will be an exceptional pleasure to eat the nerikiri(Wagashi) you made yourself.
A memorable experience
The nerikiri(Wagashi) experience is a precious experience that allows you to create a unique and original work of art.
You can take a picture of it or bring it home as a souvenir, making it a memory that will last a lifetime.
4. Attractions of the Nerikiri(Wagashi) Experience
4-1. you can experience traditional Japanese culture
Nerikiri(Wagashi) is a traditional confectionery that has developed along with the Japanese tea ceremony.
The tea ceremony is one of the spiritual cultures of Japan, and visitors can learn how to set up a tea room, use tea utensils, and brew tea.
Through the Nerikiri(Wagashi) experience, visitors can experience the spirit of the tea ceremony and the Japanese sense of beauty.
4-2. you can sharpen your senses and exercise your creativity
Making nerikiri(Wagashi) requires a delicate touch and creativity.
Through the process of adjusting colors and shapes, you can sharpen your five senses and exercise your creativity.
4-3. you can make delicious and beautiful Nerikiri(Wagashi)
The finished kneaded dough looks beautiful and tastes elegant.
Nerikiri(Wagashi) are made by kneading fine white bean paste with sugar and dyes, so they are smooth to the palate, not too sweet, and have an elegant taste.
4-4. to have a memorable experience
The nerikiri(Wagashi) experience is a valuable experience that allows you to create a one-of-a-kind original work of art.
You can take a picture of it or bring it home as a souvenir, making it a memory that will last a lifetime.
5. contents of the Nerikiri(Wagashi) experience for foreigners
5-1. flow of the experience
The general flow of the kneading experience for foreigners is as follows.
Instructor's Explanation:
Instructor explains the history of Nerikiri(Wagashi), types of Nerikiri(Wagashi), and how to make them.
Demonstration:
Observe the instructor making Nerikiri(Wagashi).
Making the Nerikiri(Wagashi):
Participants actually make the Nerikiri(Wagashi).
Tasting:
Taste the kneaded dough.
5-2. tools and materials used
The following tools and materials are required for making kneaded dough.
Tools:
spatulas, knives, molds, etc.
Ingredients:
white bean paste, sugar, dye, matcha green tea, gold leaf, etc.
5-3. types of Nerikiri(Wagashi) you can make
The types of nerikiri(Wagashi) you can make vary depending on where you experience it, but in general, the following types are available.
Flowers:
cherry blossoms, chrysanthemums, plums, etc.
Animals:
Rabbit, carp streamer, chick, etc.
Fruits:
Strawberries, peaches, grapes, etc.
5-4. teacher's instruction
At most experience sites, instructors who can speak Japanese will provide guidance.
If you do not understand the language, they will teach you carefully with gestures.
6. recommended places to experience Nerikiri(Wagashi)
6-1. Tokyo
･Toraya Asakusa Wagashidokoro, Shinbashi Branch
･Wagashi Workshop Nagomian
･wagashi academy Tokyo An
6-2. Kyoto
･Nakamura Tokichi, Kyoto Wagashi Shop ･Suehiroan Kyoto Confectionery
･Kasho Kitcho Kyoto Main Store
･Tsujiya Honten
6-3. Osaka
･Osaka Kurashi no Konjikan: Naniwa no Suzuno
･Naniwaya Sohonten Wagashidokoro
7. points to consider when making a reservation for a nerikiri(Wagashi) experience
7-1. confirm the content of the experience
Prices and time required vary depending on the experience. Check the content of the experience in advance and choose the one that suits you best.
7-2. check the price
Fees vary depending on the location and content of the experience. Check the fees in advance and choose one that fits within your budget.
7-3. confirm the reservation method
Reservation methods vary depending on the location. In most cases, reservations can be made online or by phone.
8. Q&A about Nerikiri(Wagashi) Experience for Foreigners
Q: Is it OK if I don't speak Japanese?
A: At most experience locations, instructors who can speak Japanese will guide you. If you do not understand the language, they will carefully teach you with gestures.
Q: What kind of clothing should I wear?
A: Many places will lend you an apron and gloves, so just wear comfortable clothes.
Q: Do I need to bring anything with me?
A: There is nothing in particular that you need to bring.
Q: Is it possible to take pictures?
A: Photography is allowed, but be careful not to disturb other participants.
9.Participant's Voice
The hotel has received high reviews on TripAdvisor.
Here are some of them.
Fun, unique experience ★★★★★Fun class! My teen daughter and I enjoyed it. Teacher was very welcoming. It was in a rented kitchen in a nice residential neighborhood.
Very fun confectionary class with Japanese local ★★★★★
Tanaka was a lot of fun! We did the spring class and made the cherry blossoms, matcha flowers in grass and butterfly… and even a rabbit!
Highly recommend neriki workshop ★★★★★
Our instructor Akko was amazingly patient, a fun and friendly instructor. She reached out to you beforehand to ensure you knew the location of the class and inquired if there were any specific neriki you would like to make for class. We made the seasonal motifs, which were the Mt Fuji, maple leaf and fallen autumn leaves. My siblings and I had such a great time. Highly recommend for anyone looking to take a class.
Tokyo activity: Neriki-making edition! ★★★★★
My siblings and I participated in wonderful neriki making class taught by Akko; she's such a sweet and encouraging teacher! She taught us how to make Mt Fuji, Autumn leaves, Maple leaf, and a bonus of a rabbit 🐇
Akko is very encouraging, especially when my Mt Fuji erupted and had lava spillage. Later, with the leftover dough, she taught us how to make a rabbit.
Japanese confectionery treat how-to! ★★★★★
We had a wonderful time making various Neriki, Japanese confectionery. Since we came in October 2024, we made the seasonal shape of Mt. Fuji, colored fall leaves, and maple leaf. 🏔🍁 For bonus, we made a bunny just for fun. 🐰 Our instructor is very knowledgeable and patient with us. She is super sweet and kind. I would recommend this activity when you're in Japan.
Nerikiri(Wagashi) EI offer kneading workshops
Experience making cute confectionary Nerikiri(Wagashi) Making in Tokyo
Meet the Instructors.
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